21.An Egyptian surprise On one evening, I was frustrated looking for an Ethiopia restaurant in Bangkok's Little Arabic, but due to wrong information from a new guide book (new guide book with copied old information?) published by an expat friend that the Ethiopia Restaurant had been closed for good without any update in his guide book, I was (almost) lost. Then instead I had better luck in the mini palace of an Egyptian Queen, as, Nefertiti where located in the same soi and I had a wonder night there with friends.
Egyptian food is not my expertise but I like gourmet from every corner of the world. Nefertiti offered the best naan bread I have ever sampled in Bangkok, and nice lamb and chicken dishes. On next visit I would bring along with a guru to show me how to enjoy an Egyptian meal properly.
Since wasting almost an hour for a search of a restaurant that didn't exist, my friends and I were hungry, very hungry! Even without a guru, we immediately started the blind order from the menu, we ordered the hummus goat yoghurt (a dip made of ground chickpeas, sesame, olive oil and herbs with goat yoghurt), and the sesame mousse, together with some freshly baked naan bread. The naan bread was crunchy and smooth with a good taste of the wheat flour yield a redolent flavor with wood smoke aromas. The hummus goat yoghurt was simple but good while the sesame mousse was pretty bland.
Further we had the ground lamb kebabs with the meat marinated to please our appetite, the barbecue pomfret fish promoted an ugly overly burned look and somehow it was also less impressive in taste, the barbecue lamb leg was tasty and tender enough for us to keep asking for more naan to go with it, and the savory barbecue chicken was burned outside but tender inside with naturally sweet of the meat and aroma from the herbs, and it was the star of the night.
To clean the heavy (but welcoming) taste of the herbs I opted for a bowl of mutton soup. Oh, it was another treat of the night!
We concluded the dinner with two desserts, the om ali (warm naan bread pudding) and the mahalabia (egg white custard). They were not as impressive as the savory naan, hummus and the barbecue dishes.
For those who are fans of shisha, Nefertiti is the place for the smoke of the popular water pipes in this Little Arabic in Bangkok.
After the dinner we called the friend who didn't update his guide book for some honest genuine gourmet reviews in the future, instead of just paid advertorial.
Nefertiti Egyptian Restaurant ****
4/8 Sukhumvit Soi 3/1
off Sukhumvit Road
Klongtoey Nua, Bangkok 10110
Tel.: 02.655.3043
Open daily : 24 hours
Pay (food only for two): around THB 600
19
.Cuisine of the Great SnakeMahanaga, the God of the Great Snake. The name is Hindu, the decoration is a mix of Asian and Moroccan, the fare is Thai served in Western style; thus, MahaNaga Thai Fusion Restaurant itself is fusion and the food is fusion.
Upon arrival the oriental-colonial style house in yellow caught my immediate attention. I was greeted by a pleasant Thai lady in Moroccan outfit, who guided me through the foyer to the bar which is inspirited in Moroccan style, is probably the most stylist bar in the Sukhumvit area. I took a rest and sip in the colorful bar while waiting for my friends to arrive. The bar offered panorama view of the beautiful European style courtyard where customers could dine under moonlight in a romantic evening (or sunlight if one needs a good tan). I chose to be entertained indoors where decorated in exciting Thai, North African and Asian accents. Before I went on to the menu, I already agreed that MagaNaga Thai Fusion Restaurant is very fusion.
Together with friends who ate with me, we tried our best to order Thai fare even some ingredients may be atypical with the menu, such as rib eye steak with Thai sauce (please imagine). First we picked goong-see-thong (deep-fried prawn rolls on a bed of crispy vermicelli), poo-hoh (deep-fried crab meat, and shrimp wrapped in a tofu sheet), and poh-piah-ped-grob (deep-fried spring rolls wrapped with duck breast, glass noodle, bean sprout, jelly mushroom served with jujube sauce), they all turned out delicious.
After a round of all deep-fried appetizers we proceeded to a menu sounded more fusion included poo-nim-nam-makham (deep-fried soft shell crab in tamarind sauce), hoy-shell-phad-cha (stir-fried scallop with yellow chili and green peppercorn), phad-kaeh-makhuea-on (grilled NZ lamb racks and spiced young eggplant salad with herbal sauce), and chu-chee-pla-salmon (pan-fried salmon in red curry paste served with jasmine and red rice). Stars of the meal were poo-hoh and hoy-shell-phad-cha. Both mingled well in between Thai, Chinese, and Western culinary accents brought out great taste and made my friends' felt that it was well worth to spend their holiday in Bangkok for some Thai cuisine even it was fusion. The sauce for chu-chee-pla-salmon was not bad either; however, I prefer that they serve chu-chee dish with fresh water fish or river prawn.
We voted not to order desserts since we were pretty full after sampling seven dishes of exotic creation by the daring young chef. (Actually we went to Cherubin on Soi Sawasdee for the warm chocolate cake later.) So we concluded our delightful lunch with a visit to the Naga's restroom, colorful and fusion again!
During lunch I also ordered lemongrass juice, and chardonnay for my dear friends. When came to wine there couldn't be fusion. Luckily at MahaNaga they have extensive labels of wines and champagnes from all over the world for wine and dine lovers to sip sip. Wine started from THB 220 ($6.5) a glass or THB 1,400 ($42) a bottle. Dining in this trendy eatery we had to pay a handsome price of around THB 3,500 ($105) for three during lunch, that was included food, drinks and wine.
MahaNaga Thai Fusion Restaurant ***1/2
2 Sukhumvit Soi 29
Wattana, Bangkok 10110
Tel.: 02.662.3060
MahaNaga
Open daily : lunch 11:30 am - 2:30 pm, dinner 5:30 - 11 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 1,500
18
.Cuisine of the rising sun Running a Japanese restaurant to the success end needed the owner heart and soul in his business philosophy as Japanese culinary art always refers to both arts and taste. Although we don't expect 100% authentication for those Japanese restaurants aim for local market in Bangkok; but freshness of ingredients esp. on sashimi and sushi, and cleanliness of the shop and kitchen are not to be overlooked by the management. Those followed the formula led themselves to a great success. Competition after many years promoted two major chains in Thailand continue to prove their enthusiasm in offering Bangkok and upcountry eaters elementary Japanese fare at a competitive price. They are the Fuji and Zen together with around forty branches throughout Thailand.
When I was first brought to the Fuji (Fuji in Bangkok is not related to the one in Japan) some twenty years ago when it was still 'small, I foresee that Fuji will earn a success in the future judging by their fully illustrated menu (photo menu) of which easy for non-Japanese to understand what to order, good quality on the food (as taste and cooking method tended to match with local's appreciation but didn't lose the Japanese culinary spirit) and unbeatable price an advantage for the local consuming power. Simply the owner does run Fuji with a heart.
It may not be my favorite Japanese restaurant in Bangkok, but still worth a visit to eat with friends, no matter they are visitors or locals, that Fuji is an eatery in inexpensive charge with reasonable Kanto treat though not awesome.
When Japanese cuisine has been mentioned, we immediately considered some sushi (raw fish on bed of Japanese sushi rice cube) and sashimi (raw fish in bite-size portion). Last week I went to Fuji with friends (again), we started with avocado sushi train, California maki, salmon roll with pink caviar sauce, assorted Nigiri sushi topped with sweet shrimp, seaweed, fish roe and squid, sashimi boat medium (of five kinds of raw fish and seafood). Chilled sashimi came on a bed of crushed ice in the boat were fresh and tasted naturally sweet, so did the sushi, fair enough for the price.
Moving to appetizers, we had the avocado salad, deep-fried salmon salad, agedashi tofu (deep-fried tofu in tempura sauce), and gyoza (pan-fried dumplings with ground pork and chopped vegetable stuffing). The deep-fried salmon salad was a nice blend of traditional and contemporary one yield a welcoming taste. The gyoza has better quality than most eateries we sampled in Bangkok. Both sashimi and the appetizers dishes were satisfying.
For mains, we picked tiger prawn and mixed veggie teppanyaki, squid teriyaki, prawn tempura, chicken teriyaki and salmon steak. Simply yummy therefore need your further exploration to prove my word.
Before we can conclude the meal with desserts and fruits, we needed some carbohydrate first. We ordered grilled eel rice, soba mori (chilled plain buckwheat soba), sabusabu beef, and a set of Fuji bento. Sauce on the grilled eel was aromatic, lightly sweet and not overly salty, as, the chef had controlled the seasoning with a skill. Soba was a bit too soft due to overcooked, but Thai people fond of such soft texture when soba, udon or even spaghetti was considered; what can we say!
Because locals like sweet, very sweet; so desserts in Thailand always present in overly sweet compared to Japanese or European standard, so did at Fuji. Therefore we skipped the desserts and ordered some fruits, and more fruits.
Choices of sake in Fuji were quite limited, as Thais (still) are not familiar with this supreme Japanese rice wine. Green tea in Fuji tasted like those bottled ones sold in supermarkets, so we took bottled mineral water instead during a meal at Fuji.
Judging by its price the quality of food is decent and the service is prompt and attentive. Ambiance in Fuji may enchant diner a good appetite; it is modern, bright and cheerful. Therefore Fuji is very popular among Thai youngsters and white collars as well as family dining.
Fuji Japanese Restaurant ***
branches throughout Thailand in major shopping centers
Fuji
Open daily : (most branches) 10 am - 10 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 400
17
.The art of singing and dancing Kabuki Japanese Restaurant is another invader from Japan sharing the cake of the ever blooming Japanese cuisine market in Bangkok. First introduced to Bangkok with the parallel inauguration of the Siam Paragon Mall, Kabuki now showing Bangkok's J-food lovers authentic yet inexpensive Japanese culinary arts after its thirteen decades of success in Japan together with its sister restaurant Uttandon. Stepping into its second year in Bangkok the management of Kabuki opens a new branch in the Central World Plaza as the birthday gift to Bangkokians.
Kabuki targets the middle class of Bangkok white collars and tourists by offering traditional and authentic Japanese feast in modern presentation with the pricing just slightly higher than the local economy-class brands such as Fuji and Zen but far cheaper than those topnotch chains like AOI and Nippon Tei, with fares close to those served in Tokyo and ensured freshness for sashimi (raw fish) and other dishes.
Entering into the restaurant I spotted a fish tank with swimming lobsters, later to be served on my table as the first starters, live lobster sashimi (THB 900++) and lobster miso soup. The raw lobster meat was scrumptious and the miso soup with lobster shell was innovative. Further I had the wakame maki, a dish of seaweed sushi; maki mori, a combination of tuna, salmon, artificial crab meat and avocado sushi; sushi anago, a dish of grilled eel sushi; and chirashi sushi, mixed sashimi on a bed of mild vinegar rice. They all turned out without disappointment.
I have been informed that Japanese hot pot (shabu shabu) at Kabuki is good therefore I ordered the seafood shabu shabu, with a complimentary home made udon dish. The luscious soup base of the shabu shabu was prepared for hours with katsuobushi (dried fish) and kombu (kelp) flown in from Japan, without any MSG additive. My taste buds was once again entertained by the seafood served together with the shabu shabu soup which was fresh and tasted naturally sweet.
Regret that the portion of accompanied udon was too small, therefore I ordered the restaurant specialty - chilled green tea soba, with a nice hint of green tea flavor. Another specialty of Kabuki is the unagi rice (grilled eel on rice in a stone pot) of which cooked and seasoned the Japanese way, was almost as good as those served in Tokyo. My friend and I still had little room for the deep-fried soft shell crab, and chicken katsu, a fried breaded chicken cutlet. The cutlet had rich taste of real chicken (not those frozen ones) and the meat was tender, though the tonkatsu (fried breaded pork loin cutlet) version was even better.
Although I was very full, but steamed Japanese egg custard is my favorite dessert even though it is not a sweet item. The chawanmushi (steamed egg custard with ginkgo, shrimp, chicken, shitake mushroom and kamaboko) cooked on my table a la minute and it took about five minutes to be prepared. I was also served the green tea ice cream and raspberry sorbet, both were from the house.
To end with my plentiful lunch with my friend, I had a dish of papaya (complimentary again) and a pot of hot green tea to cleanse my palate that was full of overwhelming (nice) taste in a single hour. Besides green tea, a meal with sake either served hot or chilled is delightful, while my friend ordered the chilled one. Kabuki also serves a handful of imported beer and cold drinks.
Kabuki, the restaurant, hosted a pleasant lunch experience for us.
Kabuki Japanese Restaurant ***1/2
G-27 Ground floor, the Siam Paragon
991 Rama I Road
Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel.: 02.129.4423
Kabuki
Open daily : 11 am - 10 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 600
16
.The grill of BangkokWell-off locals and Japanese expatriates are all familiar with Nippon-tei, almost Bangkok's first standalone premium Japanese restaurant where people can find a treat of authentic Japanese feast. After more than twenty years of running a top Japanese restaurant chain with success, they created another brainchild to the world of gourmet last year, known as the Grill Tokyo.
Before I was told that Grill Tokyo belongs to the Nippon-tei group, judging by its Western-bound, chic and contemporary art-like interior, I did once thought if Grill Tokyo was another pretentious fusion eatery without the true value to fine dining, like those 'every meal is a show' or 'we search for only the best ingredients around the world (oops world where? in Klongtoey fresh market?)' restaurants that are distinctive on the bills but not on the food.
Hinted by the restaurant name and its interior, Grill Tokyo of course offers grill (steak) dishes, plus a variety of Western + Japanese fusion cuisine; but never forgotten the traditional Japanese fare. So there are different menus for us to study before a proper order can be placed.
Prior to my recent visit, I have been pampered with a real taste in Grill Tokyo for a few times. First time was a month after the opening of this remarkable eatery, I dropped by for a simple sashimi lunch. The catch was fresh and price was reasonable. I mean reasonable according to the quality. I have been told that there are more than thirty selections of only the best quality seafood being flown in everyday from Japan in dancing (fresh) shape. I had the toro (tuna belly), yellow tail, scallop, sweet shrimp and a whole giant sea whelk (THB 1,700++) with the shell being cleaned and packed for my souvenir. The quality can be as good as those offered in a shop right inside the Tuskiji Market in Tokyo.
Once I had the Australian steak set (with soup and dessert). Wow, the steak was more than moist and tender; its succulent tasty meat remained in my dream until the morning. For THB 550++ it is arguably the best value steak set in town. Ironically I had the piece of best value Aussie steak in Grill Tokyo but not in a steakhouse. Guess those steakhouse owners need some improvement or at least recalculate the cost!
On my recent visit to Grill Tokyo with friends, we ordered the 4-course lunch set of which I have been long missing it. Began with the appetizers, we had izumi-dai capaccio (sea bream), katsuo salad (green salad with bonito sashimi), and the pork shabu salad with spicy bean sauce. The sashimi were fresh and the pork was moist and tender, all of them were tasty.
Moving to the second course (a grill dish of seafood) we had tusbodai nitsuke (fish stew), deep fried soft shell crab, ugagi kabayabi (grilled eel with teriyaki sauce), and buri teriyaki (grilled yellow tail with teriyaki sauce). They were all heavily seasoned in sweet and salty note that made them taste truly Japanese.
Came to the mains (a noodle, spaghetti or rice dish) we had mabo nasu don (rice topped with ground pork mabo style), hiyashi chuka (chilled cold noodle Chinese style), and karu bi don (rice topped with grilled pork). All of them served with miso soup. We concluded the lunch with Grill Tokyo fabulous home-made ice cream, taste we had were chocolate, Earl Grey and mango. Also good was the black sesame pudding.
Now no more secret to everyone; it doesn't have to be well-off to dine at Grill Tokyo, the lunch set at THB 390++ is probably the cheapest deal for a 4-course premium lunch set in town. Not necessary to tell you how good the lunch set was but just to confirm that I will keep returning to Grill Tokyo if the standard remains.
Grill Tokyo Japanese Grill Room ****
G/F The Siam Paragon
991 Rama I Road
Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel.: 02.610.9487
Grill Tokyo
Open daily : lunch 11:30 am - 2 pm, dinner 5:30 - 10 pm
(all-day-dining for Saturday and Sunday)
Pay (food only for two): around THB 3,000
weekdays 4-course lunch set THB 390++
15
.Tea with bunches of bouquets So Langsuan is Bangkok's most favorite destinations for people looking for chic style fine dining. Adding on the list is a gift to Bangkokian where a sixty-year-old grandma house renovated into this white home-sweet-home tea room and flower shop houses the High Tea and Ruern Boossaba (House of Flower).
A brainchild of renowned florist Panitan Tongsatit, High Tea sits harmonized with Ruern Boossaba tastefully decorated in all white and minimal interior with great charm. Welcoming scents of floral slowly flowed into the lounge brings customers peace of mind while sipping a cup of French-style flavored tea or cappuccino on the elegant couch in a lazy sunny afternoon. It is a real chilled-out sanctuary in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.
High Tea offers more than cakes and tea, there is a limited but delicious hot meal items have been added on the menu. Star of the starter was salmon salad in spicy lemongrass sauce so it was what I started for lunch with a friend. The sauce was not really too spicy, instead it was a good mix of lemongrass, herbs and chili. The pumpkin soup was aromatic and rich and stomach filling.
I also sampled the tuna spaghetti with black olive, it was cooked medium soft with the al dente texture, simple but good; and my friend tried the prawns fettuccine, the dish came with three big river prawns and the sauce was from a secret recipe of High Tea, both aromatic and spicy.
For mains, I opted for boneless duck with chill and tomato sauce, the duck meat was so tender and the sauce was not spicy despite chili mentioned, and my friend picked pork chop with apple and raisin sauce, a piece of tender country rib with a hint of sweet and aroma from the apple. They are as good as the High Tea famous pastries and cakes.
Finally pastry fan likes me came to the desserts. Best sellers are the dark chocolate cake, and the white chocolate cheese cake; and I opted for the dark chocolate cake served warm, first. I voted this dark devil the best in Bangkok surpassing the Oriental's and the Peninsula's chocolate cakes. Need to say more! Other delighted desserts were the dark chocolate mousse, the chocolate crepes, and the peach panna cotta. For cheese cake lovers another star of High Tea couldn't be missed were the white chocolate cheese cake with blueberry, and the white chocolate cheese cake with cherry. I would have regretted if I didn't order any. My friend and I shared them.
I ordered High Tea's French-style flavored tea to accompany the cakes. Summer was the flavor I always wanted to have a return cup.
Perhaps High Tea and Ruern Boossaba is an extraordinary tea room where I can take time to kill my entire afternoon, to appreciate the flowers and bouquets, to enjoy the atmosphere, and then to roam about the front porch, the outdoor terrace, the lounge and the dining area with my favorite pastries and tea or coffee.
High Tea @ Ruern Boossaba ***1/2
68/1 Soi Langsuan
Lumpini, Bangkok 10330
tel.: 02.652.1244
Open daily : 9 am - 10 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 1,000
(Notice: High Tea has been relocated to 45/4 Langsuan Road, join hand with Mokka Old Fashioned Cafe and Restaurant. It is near the Starbucks Langsuan. New phone number is 02.354.5699. Pity that food is not as good as before, and my favorite warm chocolate cakes shrink in size. Mokka has a wide range of alcohol drinks and wine list so its it a pub-cum-restaurant with a Western and Thai menu, while High Tea still serves desserts and tea. Updated on 2008-08-01)
(Update on 2011-02-01: High Tea is now a history, while Mokka moved to continue its booze and noisy pub business elsewhere.)
