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.Palace of a shabby-genteel rajaBangkok has a carnival of around two hundred Italian restaurants in town, some run by native Italian restaurateurs, others owned by enthusiastic local or foreign investors. No matter which one they are, furious competition is a common obstacle in the running of them. Many high end restaurants roll out quality lunch sets at a bargain price to keep customers aware and to lure them into dinner, which has more expensive menus.
Palazzo Ristorante and Wine Bar, a popular wine and dine joint in Thonglo for the high-so(ciety) locals who love wine at an affordable price, does a four-course lunch set at just THB 350++. The set consists of an all-you-can-eat antipasti, a soup, a choice of mains, and desserts followed by coffee or tea.
Those who still do a two-course lunch set at THB 500 or more shall feel the heat!
Weekdays lunch set ***1/2
Palazzo Ristorante and Wine Bar
335 Thonglo Soi 17
Sukhumvit Soi 55
Wattana, Bangkok 10110
Tel.: 02.712.9900
Open daily : lunch 11:30 am - 2:30 pm, dinner 6 - 11 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 3,000 (lunch set THB 350++)
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.Deconstruction cuisineIn Thailand, there is never a problem to enjoy a meal of good Thai cuisine (of course); they are just around any corner, at a decade-old pochana (small local restaurant), or in a Thai household. But when the cuisine comes to luxurious banquet versions it is rather sad; most five-star hotel's versions of Thai cuisine are quite disappointing; the food is pale and bland without bright ambition or effort. I feel they are just repacking mediocre food, serving them on porcelain tableware in the comfort of exquisite ambiance and impeccable service. So boring!
Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, the Bangkok branch of the Copenhagen based Kiin Kiin Thai Restaurant, wearing one-star Michelin recognition, opened almost two years ago in the Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok and has added spice to the local gastronomy scene. Sra Bua offers molecular gastronomy Thai dishes, the first in the Kingdom; so grandma's recipe gaeng bark (firey hot jungle curry), a backpacker's love phad Thai (stir-fried sen-chan noodle) and a tourist's favorite chicken pieces wrapped in pandan leaf may not appear on the menu; even if they do, they may appear in another costume, like the very common red curry there is presented in a form of iced cream, served with frozen fog.
My friend took me to Sra Bua for lunch, to see if our taste-buds appreciated the first Thai molecular gastronomy cuisine. There are likes and dis-likes for Sra Bua's modern Thai cuisine, using cutting-edge culinary technique and molecular gastronomy, and I enjoyed the meal so much, as long as I opened my mind, and treated that as haute cuisine with a Thai twist.
Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin ***
Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok
991/9 Rama I Road
Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel.: 02.162.9000
Sra Bua
Open daily : lunch 12 am - 3 pm, dinner 6 - 11 pm
Pay : lunch set THB 1,500++, dinner set THB 2,400++
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.Affordable luxury lunch deal
Madison is the steakhouse in the Four Seasons Hotel, which offers luxury beef cuts such as Matsuzaka and Kobe to Wagyu and USDA Prime, prepared in an American twist. It is one of the most luxurious steakhouses in Bangkok, and arguably the best in the 90's when the Four Seasons Bangkok was the Regent Hotel.
A meal for two at Madison may cost a local junior manager a month of his salary, say THB 20,000 with a bottle of nice wine, or half of the price without wine. Luxury does sometimes come with promotions, during weekdays Madison offers a tempting sixty-minute business luncheon deal, which is a 2-course lunch set below the mark of one thousand Thai baht, including Madison's renowned all-u-can-eat salad bar. It is a good chance for non-regular customers to sample Madison food and decide if it is justified to pay a luxury price for a-la-carte or dinner on another occasion.
Two weeks ago I revisited this once talk of the town steakhouse in Bangkok with an American foodie friend during lunchtime. The 3-course lunch set, THB 890++, consists of a soup or the all-u-can-eat salad bar, a main course with choices, and a desert with choices. It is a fairly good deal at this classy grill room. However the food didn't live up to expectations; the salad bar isn't as 'wow' as before, choices cut back and quality declined, for instance, scallops in one of the salad dishes had an artificial texture and tasted bland. Imagine the taste of an eatable rubber or Japanese fake scallops those kids eat! For mains I opted for pan-fried sea bass and it was quite good; but my friend wasn't as lucky as me. His grilled sirloin steak in black pepper sauce didn't have a decent beef flavor and was not tender, though not over-cooked. He described it as coffee-shop quality. The dessert, a creme burlee, was fine.
The food quality and taste aren't as good as last time I visited Madison, which was two years ago.
Madison ***1/2
Four Seasons Hotel, Bangkok
155 Rajdamri Road
Pratumwan, Bangkok 10330
Tel.: 02.126.8866
Open daily : breakfast 6 - 10:30 am, lunch 12 noon - 2:30 pm, dinner 6 - 10:30 pm, Sunday brunch 11:30 am - 3 pm
Pay (3-course lunch set without drinks): THB 890++
(a la carte 3-course around THB 8,000 without drinks)
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Christmas day 4-course lunch Hamilton's Steak House @ Dusit Thani Hotel
4-course X’mas Lunch for B950++; it consisted of appetizer, soup, main course, and dessert.
Choices of appetizer were Pan-fried Crab Cake served with melted chili cheese and organic lettuces, or Terrine of Duck Liver served with wild roquette salad. I chose the Crab Cake, the cake was slightly crispy outside and the meat was soft, tasty.
Soup had two choices, Lobster Bisque with brandy and grissini in a baked puff, or Double Chicken Comsomme with vegetable pearls. Of course I opted for the Hamilton’s signature Lobster Bisque, with subtle flavor of cognac together with well balanced taste of fine ingredients made this soup marvelous.
Main course was Roasted Strip Loin of Beef served with home fries, mushroom sauce and assorted root vegetables, or Fillet of Roasted Turkey with its stuffing in cranberry sauce. I had the Strip Loin of Beef, tender and juicy, bravo!
Choices of dessert were American Apple Pie served with vanilla sauce, or Christmas Pudding in vanilla sauce. My pick was the American Apple Pie, so-so.All for B1,118 net ($34) it was a nice treat on Christmas day though.
Hamilton’s also offer regular 3-course Business Set Lunch from Monday to Friday, for B450++ only.
The Hamilton's Steak House ****
Dusit Thani Hotel Bangkok
946 Rama IV Road
Bangrak, Bangkok 10500
Tel.: 02.236.9999
Hamilton's
Open daily: Lunch 11:30 am - 2:20 pm; Dinner 6 - 11 pm
Pay (food only): regular dinner expect to pay THB 8,000 for two
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