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Monday, September 08, 2008

Shark fins soup for you?




BANGKOK
HIDDEN GOURMET

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Shark fin soup Specialties in Thailand

Consume of shark fin soup used to be the privilege of a Chinese Emperor for a century, later spread to banquet tables in weddings and all exquisite dining parties for the Chinese communities in modern days. Shark fin soup is made with fins obtained from a shark. Frankly, shark fins are the pectoral and dorsal fins of shark species, with flexible soft tissue known as cartilage which contains nutrition and even medical goodness. Shark fin has almost no flavor of its own but has an amazing ability to absorb and enhance the flavor of other ingredients cooked with it, such as hen, pork ribs, dried black mushroom, Yunnan ham, and even expensive dried abalone, simmered for enough hours in preparing of the hearty superior broth for the shark fin soup. Best serve with aged Chinese black vinegar or even a drop of brandy to add the zest in eating pleasure. By now you can figure out why shark fin soup cost so much money for a little serving.

Many people believe shark fins have the benefits of retarding aging, improving sex life (for men), and even curing cancer? On the other hand, academic report of shark fins probably contains high levels of mercury maybe harmful to consumers’ health!

I was told that consume of shark fin soup was cruel and it was against the animal rights. Then some people raise another question about eating foie gras if it is relatively cruel as method of raising goose for the foie gras is more controversial than catching shark. Personally I neither eat shark’s fin as a habit nor particularly enjoy this expensive food (yes it is expensive if you get the real fins and it is even very very expensive if you get the top grade fins); but, some customers and friends from Japan and Greater China region (China, HK and Taiwan) are fans of this delicacy popular in China since the Ming Dynasty. Like it or not, my duty to show them where to eat delicious and real (yes there are many fake fins out there in Yaowaraj and other parts of the country) shark fin soup in Bangkok.

If you are a bit hesitated to eat shark fin soup because of its controversial fining method, but eventually might enjoy a bowl of shark fin soup due to the hearty broth, then rescue came to your palate enjoyment. You may get your bowl (of shark fin soup) in Yaowaraj, Bangrak, Klong Tan or any roadside shark’s fins hawkers, browse the giant tin pot they do the broth, if you find pork ribs and chicken bone in the giant pot, then your bowl of shark fin soup probably is well prepared. How about the killing shark part? Don’t worry, for Baht 300 you don’t get real fins; they are vegetarian fins a.k.a. artificial fins.

Below are my picks for the best shark fin soup in town, either the fins were superior (under the Baht 1,000-2,000 mark), the soup prepared the superb way, or it was environmental friendly vegetarian fins. Please bear in mind in Thailand chefs are better off to prepare Thai-Chinese style braised shark fin in brown soup, not the Cantonese or contemporary Tiew-chew one people eat in Hong Kong and in the US Chinatown. In Greater China region people more opt for the consommé one that require a full day to prepare the broth simmered with pork ribs and chicken (hen) together with expensive ingredients such as Chinese Yunnan ham and even dried abalone without a drop of MSG, rather than the Thai-Chinese style of so-called brown soup based on heavy use of oyster sauce, soy sauce and MSG.


My cherry picks (4 categories):


Category I - Shark fin specialty, the winner is,


Bangkok Shark Fin (曼谷魚翅)

Why?
Here they have better broth though oyster sauce and seasonings are not avoidable in all shark fin soup specialties across the nation to prepare the famous (or infamous!) Thai-Chinese style ‘brown’ soup. Taste good with better value than the rest in Thailand!

Food: The braised shark fin soup, Thai-Chinese style ‘brown’ soup base, flavorsome chicken and pork broth, soup not too thick has a nice balance in texture and taste even with the presence of oyster sauce and slightly salty; braised fins so tender! (Besides braised shark fin soup, the restaurant also offers stir-fried shark fins, braised fish maw soup, stir-fried sea cucumber, vegetables, fried noodles to even steam fish.)

Service: Friendly and helpful

Ambiance: Minimal decoration with a nice fish tank for our appreciation during wait for the soup to be arrived, air-con a bit too cold.

Shark fins: Real fins.

Value: From Baht 800 per clay pot; the Baht 1,000 one fins were plentiful in portion; arguably Bangkok best Thai-Chinese style ‘brown’ broth fins soup in term of both quality and quantity.

Address: 218/3-4 Siam Square Soi 1, Rama I Road, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330; Tel.: 02-2510987; open daily 12pm – 12am.

Runner-up:
1) Hock Shark-fins (福魚翅) on 167/2 Surawong Road, Bangkok; Tel.: 02-2335939
2) Nam Sing (南星)* on 231/19 Pattaya 2nd Road, Pattaya, Chon-buri; Tel.: 038-711221
* not Yaowaraj branch



Category II – Shark fin soup hawker, the winner is,


Tai Tong Bangrak (大中魚翅)

Why?
Tai Tong Bangrak was chosen because it is safer to sit on the pedestrian footpath in a less traffic lane and probably with less pollution.

Food: Nothing good, just the vegetarian fins may be good for animal rights supporters. The broth had one taste, as, extremely salty. You will love the soup if you are fans of MSG and oyster sauce.

Service: Prompt and friendly

Ambiance: Set inside a lane off the main road better than sitting on the Yaowaraj roadside, still it is roadside ambiance, don’t expect comfort and hygiene.

Shark fins: Vegetarian fins

Value: From Baht 400 per clay pot; my Baht 500 one was overpriced for such quality of broth with vegetarian fins.

Address: Charoen Krung Soi 46, Charoen Krung (New) Road, Bangrak, Bangkok 10500; Tel.: not available; Open daily 5pm – 12am

Runner-up:
1) Sing Shark Fin Hawker, roadside Yaowaraj Road, China Town, Bangkok
2) Klong Tan shark fin soup hawkers, Klong Tan, Bangkok



Category III - Chinese restaurant, the winner is,


Lieo Lieng Seng (廖兩成酒家)

Why?
Broth was authentic following Hong Kong’s Tiew-chew recipe, fins are tender and the portion was a steal for Baht 400 a pot.

Food: The braised shark fin soup, broth is rather quite Hong Kong Tiew-chew than local Thai-Chinese one although oyster sauce was on the call. The broth had an obvious taste of dried seafood, pork bone and chicken, not artificial seasonings. Fins were tender. No more extra seasonings to go with the soup, just some Chinese vinegar will enhance the taste and made the fins easier to be digested in our stomach. (The restaurant has a selective Chinese cuisine menu, food quite good!)

Service: Average service with prompt response, friendly recommendation on order.

Ambiance: Minimal decor and small dining hall poses a warm atmosphere for diners. It is bright and clean.

Shark fins: Real fins

Value: From Baht 500 per clay pot; our Baht 1,500 large pot was generous in portion (good for six servings) with relatively good quality of broth. It was a steal of the day. Excellent value!

Address: 802-804 Rama IV Road (behind Montien Hotel), Bangrak, Bangkok 10500; Tel.: 02-2345791; Open daily - 11am-10pm


Runner-up:
1) Tang Jai You (陳再裕酒家) 85-87 Soi Yaowa-Phanich, Yaowaraj; Tel.: 02.224.2167
2) Crystal Jade Golden Palace Restaurant (翡翠金閣酒家) at Siam Paragon Mall;
Tel.: 02.129.4343


Category IV - Hotel outlet, the winner is,


China House (中茗閣) @ the Mandarin Oriental Hotel

Why?
Soup was hearty, fins were tender, the whole thing was heavenly delicious, and it is the Oriental!

Food: Their braised shark fin soup, broth took a day of work to simmer with expensive ingredients such as Yunnan ham, dried seafood, pork ribs, hen (not any chicken) and Chinese mushroom. The broth didn’t need any more artificial seasonings as the Yunnan ham did the job. Fins in decent portion were tender. Broth was aromatic with the goodness of full-day simmered pork and hen soup, good in nutrition though. I put some aged Chinese malt vinegar to go with the fin soup. (The restaurant offers a full menu for Chinese cuisine.)

Service: The Oriental Hotel kind of attentive service.

Ambiance: Sip your tea and enjoy your bowl of fin soup in an opulent ambiance.

Shark fins: Real fins

Value: Expensive in terms of the Baht, but well worth the bill if no compromise of quality and service is your main concern.

Address: Soi Oriental, Charoen Krung Soi 40, Charoen Krung (New) Road, Bangrak, Bangkok; Tel.: 02-6599000
http://thaisclub.blogspot.com/2008/08/bangkok-hidden-gourmet.html

Runner-up:
1. Shang Palace (香宮) @ the Shangri-la Hotel; Tel.: 02-2068677
http://thaisclub.blogspot.com/2007/12/blog-post_23.html
2. Man Ho (萬豪) @ JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok; Tel.: 02-6567700


And the Grand Winner goes to,

Bangkok Shark Fin

Siam Square Soi 1, Rama I Road, Bangkok

Why?
Good quality good service reasonable price and ultra cool air-conditioned room!

Enjoy!