Sorn Daeng

BANGKOK HIDDEN GOURMET
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Sorn Daeng

Sorndaeng locates in the city's historical area; and it is very close to Khao San Road, a backpackers heaven. One night, passed by Sorndeang, happened to see some farang (Western tourists) eating there. I have the flashing idea that it is another Lonely Planet kind of restaurant. I was wrong! Sorndaeng offers noble Thai cuisine since King Rama VI regime. Main clienteles are those big wigs aunties and greased hair uncles those own some medals on their suits if not uniforms.



Food is definitely good. Surprisingly price is inexpensive at all. Service? For the Nobles perhaps!

Methavalai Sorndaeng ****
78/2 Rajadamnoen Klang Road
Phranakong, Bangkok 10200
Tel.: 02.224.0388

Open daily : 11 am - 11 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 800

Lai Rot

BANGKOK HIDDEN GOURMET

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Lai Rot
Rama 5 Road
Samsen, Bangkok

for review, stay tuned!

Khao Chae

BANGKOK HIDDEN GOURMET
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Khao chae

Every year during the hottest month in Thailand I anticipate the coming of Songkran (Thai New Year) Festival, or Splash-water Festival in the eyes of foreign visitors, and eating of Khao chae or literally chilled rice.

As the fuel cost increases are skyrocketing, the best way to fight electricity bills is to eat khao chae to lower our body temperature. Khao chae consists of rice soaked in ice-cold jasmine-scented water served with elaborately prepared side dishes.

Khao chae chao-Mon was originated from the Mon ethnic people resident in Thailand two centuries ago, cooked to sacrifice to the God, the dish is rather simple compare to the Royal Thai version. Khao chae chao wang (the Royal Thai khao chae) which originated in the royal court of King Rama II as a dish to comfort the King (Rama II) and royal people during the hot season. The rice and water of Royal Thai khao chae is pretty complicated and requires a long process. Half cooked rice repeatedly rinsed to get rid of the starch before further being cooked, next put in cold water to avoid a premature process, drain the water; later steaming the half-dry rice in a cloth wrapper over a volcano-hot boiler until it is fully cooked in order for the scented water to look clear with the rice, earning a firm texture. The jasmine-scented water is not prepared with less effort. Jasmine blossoms are soaked in water in a clay pot with a jasmine-scented candle carefully floating on it for the water to absorb the fragrance with the pot covered for a while; repeat the process until satisfaction is met, then pour the scented water into an earthenware pot and store them overnight. When served, add the rice in the scented water followed by mini ice cubes, accompanied by tidbits.

The tidbits or side dishes, are, Luk Kapi (deep-fried fermented shrimp paste balls), Hom Daeng Yud Sai (deep-fried shallots stuffed with minced fish), Prik Yuak Sord Sai (banana chili pepper stuffed with minced pork wrapped in egg netting), Moo Foi (shredded sweet pork), Chai Pow Pad Wan (stir-fried sweet dry turnip with egg) and Carved Vegetables (green mango, cucumber, krachai, red chili and green onion).

To ensure our palate enjoys the most pleasure from the jasmine-scented khao chae and tidbits, we eat the rice and the tidbits separately, one at a time. Never put the tidbits in the rice and water as it will cloud the scented water.

Khao chae is another original deli from Thailand, it is unique and it is chic. I had my share of khao chae in the following fine establishments.

1) Lai Rot Khao Chae Chao Wang Thai Restaurant, (branch 1) 202 Rama 6 Road, Bangkok 10400, Tel.: 02-2792895; (branch 2) 120/4 Sukhumvit Soi 49, Bangkok 10110, Tel.: 02-3913193

Royal Thai style khao chae B170/set available throughout the year (recipe from the Princess Chalermkhetmongkol’s Palace)


2) Lord Jims @ Oriental Hotel, 48 Oriental Avenue, Bangkok 10500, Thailand; Tel.: 02-6599000

Royal Thai style khao chae includes in the lunch buffet throughout April


3) Smooth Curry @ Plaza Athenee Hotel, Wireless Road, Bangkok; Tel.: 02-6508800

Its khao chae, B320/set available in April, was the best I have ever sampled in the Kingdom. Unfortunately the restaurant’s renovation program falls in this year khao chae seasons. Go next year perhaps!


4) Koh Kret khao chae chao-Mon, near the Pier, outside Paramaiyikawas Temple, Koh Kret Island, Nonthaburi, Bangkok

Mon style khao chae B20/tidbits or B35/set available throughout the year (recipe from the original Mon ethnic people from the Cambodia settled in Thailand two centuries ago)


MDS
The writer can be reached at thaisclub@yahoo.com
Copyright © 2008 MDS. All rights reserved.

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Ruen Mallika

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Ruen Mallika

A sanctuary type Thai restaurant, Ruen Mallika, set in the 100-year old historical house surrounding with its leafy garden, hiding in the hustle and bustle of Sukhumvit Soi 22. Gastronomic heritage of Thai food is always a magical combination of pungency, freshness, aroma and color; and that is what we shall be expected for a superb Thai meal.

Ruen Mallika menu is extensive from Royal Thai cuisine to rare recipes, this is where you can eat dok mai tempura or deep-fried battered flower; and this was the reason we ate here. Helpful photo menu was available to help foreigners in the ordering; however, unfortunately the recipes were also obviously toned-down to please the foreigner’s palates, some dishes were even bland in taste.

Our first dish was of course the Dok Mai Tempura (deep-fried battered orchid), innovative but not impressive in taste.

Followed were the Krathong Thong (crispy rice cup with Thai tidbits), and Yum Makhuea Yaao (spicy salad with charcoal barbequed/smoked eggplant). The eggplant was not evenly smoked and the dish was too salty while lacking of the balance of sweet sour bitter and spicy.

Moving on were four main dishes to accompany rice. We had Choochee Goong (fried prawn in red curry and coconut cream), and Plaa Samlee Tord (deep-fried king fish with green mango sauce), the dipping sauce was a bit salty. Also Tum Kha Gai (chicken spicy coconut soup), the coconut chicken soup with coconut milk, galangal, and lemongrass were not balanced well and too creamy, and Pad Hed (stir-fried assorted mushroom).

Dessert was pretty ok compare to others. We tried the Coconut Ice Cream, and Chilled Durian Bowl.

At the end of a night, the most important thing should be the taste, not the variety. So Ruen Mallika is pretty weak in having us a return to the restaurant in the near future, although we received warm and sincere service during our dinner.

Our Ratings (1 to 5 the higher the better): Ruen Mallika has [3.4]
(Ratings are based on Food, Service and Ambience, with Price taken into account in relation to Quality) Food =3, Service=4, Ambiance=4, Money Worth=2.5

Price range for two without drinks (incl. local water) in Thai Baht = BBBB
(B=below 200, BB=201-500, BBB=501-1,000, BBBB=1,001-2,000, BBBBB=over 2,000)

Details: open daily 11am-11pm
Ruen Mallika Thai Restaurant, 189 Sukhumvit Soi 22, Bangkok 10110; Tel.: 02-6633211; http://www.yentafo.com
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Bussaracum

71
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Bussaracum

Whenever royal Thai cuisine is mentioned, we usually think of some luxury meal in elegant and exclusive setting. I have shown my friends many luxury hotels’ royal Thai cuisines, now is time for a humble treat. Bussaracum, every auntie grown up in Bangkok recognizes this well known decades old restaurant serving scrumptious royal Thai specialty, is humble and tourist friendly, inexpensive yet delicious. During lunch time the restaurant serves buffet with serious dishes the royal Thai cooking way, worth Baht 400 or more but everyone pays around Baht 250 for the offer definitely a steal in the city.

However, we went for dinner a la carte mode. Simple and good dishes started from Khao Tang Na Tang (crispy rice cakes with minced pork and shrimp dipping), it is one of my favorite starters; followed by Cho Muang (steamed flower-shaped minced chicken dumplings). They were simple and good. More elaborated dishes was Rhoom (egg-net wrapped with minced pork and shrimp), this is a dish rarely seen elsewhere because of its difficulty to cook. We appreciated Bussaracum includes rhoom in the menu, and it was well prepared.

I like spicy salad, our salad was Saengwa (old fashioned grilled prawn salad with fresh herbs served with a variety of fresh vegetables and deep-fried catfish in carved gourd). This is another must order dish as restaurants opt for fine dining royal Thai cuisine don’t offer this earthy dish, what a waste! My old gun visitor told me it was his first time sampling this mouthwatering salad in Bangkok, what a gain!

Main dishes to accompany rice, we ordered Gaeng Phed Ped Yang (red curry with roasted duck meat), Choochee Goong Nang (river prawn in thick curry with coconut cream), Tom Kha Gai (coconut milk chicken soup with gal and lemongrass), Tord Man Plaa Grai (deep-fried fish cakes), Pad Pak Ruammit (stir-fried mixed vegetables), and rounded up with the Mee Krob (crispy sweet noodles with shrimp and pickled garlic in tamarind sauce). Oh pretty full and fulfilling now.

If you feel puzzled what for desserts, I suggest the Bussaracum’s Special Desserts (variety of Thai fresh fruits and classical desserts).

What we found were not exactly innovative dishes, they were honest royal Thai cuisine with authentic taste. Go get your fork and spoon ready in Bussaracum.

Our Ratings (1 to 5 the higher the better): Bussaracum has [3.9]
(Ratings are based on Food, Service and Ambience, with Price taken into account in relation to Quality) Food =4, Service=4, Ambiance=3.5, Money Worth=4

Details: open daily Lunch 11am-2pm; Dinner 5-10pm
Bussaracum Royal Thai Cuisine, Sethiwan Building, Pan Road, Bangkok; Tel.: 02-2666312


*updated on 2012-04-12 (Bussaracum had been relocated to 1 Si Wiang Road, Soi Pramuan, off Silom Road)
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Kalpapruek

BANGKOK AMAZING GOURMET
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Kalpapruek

Today I went to Health Land to have my muscle stretch in the morning, had lunch appointment with my friend who promised to show me the neighborhood where he grew up. It was upper Silom area. We went to Kalpapruek, where traditional Thai cum notable Western cuisine being served there. Not particularly outstanding but fair enough to satisfy my taste buds.

Original name of kalpapruek is a rare tree in the Siam regime, the restaurant was named after Kalpapreuk simply the tree was plant in the restaurant compound once the residence of a princess.

I rather describe Kalpapreuk a modern and easy going canteen-style eatery with a twist. Service was loose, waitpersons leaked of Siam-smile but our dishes arrived promptly after the order announced. I started the lunch with a glass of Preserved Plum Juice, a special drink not in the menu, simply refreshing.

Kalpapruek is famous for its Green Curry with Roti for decades, but we didn't feel like having roti in a non-Indian nor middle-eastern establishment. My friend suggested (and ordered) the Gai Yang Khao Ngo and Somtam Set (grilled marinated chicken served with spicy green papaya salad), and Nam Prik Issan (spicy Thai dip served with raw vegetables and Northeastern sausage). Somtam and nam prik were fine for me but not totally my liking, instead I appreciated the grilled chicken more.

My turn to order was Nam-tok Khaw Moo Yang (grilled pork neck in spicy stir-fried dressing) and Yum Wunsen (spicy glass noodles salad with chicken and minced pork). They turned out quiet disappointed with quality differ to its other branch in the Emporium. The pork neck was somehow finger licking good.

Followed were Mixed Vegetables and Sesame Prawn Bread, rounded up our lunch with a dish of Pad Thai. The sesame prawn bread did draw some make up point for the yum wunsen, and the pad Thai was indeed delicious.

The restaurant has reputation for its cakes and baked goodies, but we had no room for that. Kalpapruek also serves interesting western fare so we decide to give it a try as soon as possible.

After lunch we went to the TCDC (Thailand Creative and Design Centre) at the Emporium, spent a few hours there reading books until dusk. We went to the first floor where we found Kalpapruek On First. Remember I told you that I would like to sample the restaurant's western fare, sure, we did.

We ordered French Onion Soup, Pot-au-Feu, Avocado & Fruits Salad, Chicken Salad, Rainbow Trout, Ox Tongue Rice and Clam Spaghetti Spicy Sauce.

Kalpapruek Thai Restaurant ***1/4
27 Pramuan Road
off Silom Road
Bangrak, Bangok 10500
Tel.: 02.236.4335
(also branches in the Emporium, All Seasons Place, and the Siam Paragon)

Open daily : Mon-Sat 8 am - 6 pm, Sunday 8 am - 3 pm
Pay (food only for two): around THB 500

Chon Ngern Chon Thong

69
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Chon Ngern Chon Thong

Chon Ngren Chon Thong literally means Silver Spoon and Golden Spoon. I have heard of this Thai restaurant neither it earns any chef’s award nor in the best restaurants list of the year, not from food critics, but from the news; political news in particular. Sited on Rama 6 Road near a few government agencies and headquarter of the Democrat Party, Chon Ngern Chon Thong became popular high-so(ciety) canteen among high-profile politicians, civil servants, and the hip and discerning Soi Ari residents for years. I am lack of luck to bump into Khun Abhisit Vejjajiva, the Democrat’s leader, after several attempts to the restaurant.

Food is good but not outstanding, authentic but not (very) spicy thanks to the chef’s adoption to Bangkokians palate; therefore Chon Ngern Chon Thong is the ideal eating institute for tourists evolve to authentic Thai food (from tourist-friendly taste) sampling without their tongues being burnt.

Worth to explore Chon Ngren Chon Thong for more but I will put this option in the bottom of my itinerary, unless I go to Samsen Railway Station, or Soi Ari, or Vichaiyut Hospital renowned for its brain faculty, or Government Public Relations Department’s Foreign Office, or the Ministry of Finance where the restaurant is just a stone-throw distance from them.

Our Ratings (1 to 5 the higher the better): CNCT has [3.5]
(Ratings are based on Food, Service and Ambience, with Price taken into account in relation to Quality) Food =3.5, Service=3.5, Ambiance=3.0, Money Worth=4.0

Price range for two without drinks (incl. local water) in Thai Baht = BBB
(B=below 200, BB=201-500, BBB=501-1,000, BBBB=1,001-2,000, BBBBB=over 2,000)

Best dishes: mee krob (fried crispy sweet and spicy noodles), green curry, deep-fried sea bass
Wine list: poor wine list
Best table: tables on the side
Details: open daily 11:00am-10:00pm
Chon Ngern Chon Thong Thai Restaurant, 198/18 Rama 6 Road, Bangkok 10400; Tel.: 02-2710117
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Je Daeng Crab & Seafood

68
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Je Daeng Je It Crab and Seafood

This out-of-town seafood specialty has the best crab in the country, and inexpensive. The restaurant will soon be filled with hungry customers from Bangkok soon after its door open at 11:30 am. Need I say more?

75 minutes* ride from Bangkok's Central Rama 3 Shopping Mall, not that far right?

* 75 minutes on Sunday and public holidays, weekdays travel time x2



Our Ratings (1 to 5 the higher the better): Je Daeng has [4.1]
(Ratings are based on Food, Service and Ambience, with Price taken into account in relation to Quality) Food =4.5, Service=4, Ambiance=3, Money Worth=5

Price range for two without drinks (incl. local water) in Thai Baht = BBB (B=below 200, BB=201-500, BBB=501-1,000, BBBB=1,001-2,000, BBBBB=over 2,000)

Details: open daily – 11:30am – 8pm
Je Daeng Crab and Seafood Restaurant, Muang District, Samut Songkhram, Thailand 75000; Tel.: 034-712077



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Baan Klang Nam

67
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House by the river

Baan Klang Nam is probably not only well known to local seafood connoisseur but also to frequent visitors to Thailand for its famous charcoal grilled giant river prawn. This unpretentious Thai-Chinese seafood joint is so packed during dinner peak hours therefore a visit to Baan Klang Nam without prior reservation means long wait for a table esp. during weekends.

To avoid the crowd, few days ago I visited their easier to reach riverside branch in Bangkok Square on Rama 3 Road during lunch. Breeze from the river cool down the heat of mid-day sunshine although we sat al fresco right next to the Chao Phraya River. (Baan Klang Nam also has air-conditioning dining room.)

Enthusiasm of good service in Baan Klang Nam begins with the helpful pictorial menu, so ordering is never a mystery for tourists anymore. For me menu is not necessary in Baan Klang Nam, without wasting time I ordered the house specialty Giant River Prawn (river lobster in the menu, B450/piece big or B500/piece bigger) had them grilled to perfection, and Mee Krob (fried crispy noodles with shrimps) shouldn’t be missed too. Further I sampled the Grilled Whole White Seabass with sea salt coating, and Tomkhagai (coconut chicken soup). My rice-bowl friend ordered Braised Tofu and Stir-fried Bitter Gourd Leaves to accompany some rice.

Taste was authentic and delicious. Simply delicious.

Price at Baan Klang Nam is not easy neither expensive, personally I think it is a steal from their good quality of seafood. Although it is a bit remote from the city center, but the aroma of Baan Klang Nam’s grilled giant river prawn definitely draws my return to the restaurant.

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Our Ratings (1 to 5 the higher the better): Baan Klang Nam has [3.8]
(Ratings are based on Food, Service and Ambience, with Price taken into account in relation to Quality) Food =4, Service=3.5, Ambiance=3.5, Money Worth=4

Price range for two without drinks (incl. local water) in Thai Baht = BBBB
(B=below 200, BB=201-500, BBB=501-1,000, BBBB=1,001-2,000, BBBBB=over 2,000)

Details: open daily 11 am-10pm
Baan Klang Nam, (Branch 1) 288 Rama 3 Soi 14, Bangkhlo, Bangkok 10120; Tel.: 0-2292-0175, 0-2292-2037 (Branch 2) 762/7 Rama 3 Road, Bangkok Square Jatujak Market, Bang Pongpang, Yannawa, Bangkok 10120; Tel.: 02-682-7180, 02-682-7186
http://www.baanklangnam.net/
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